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There's been an uptick of questions regarding MoCA (Multimedia over Coax Alliance) networks and how it works. I am not an expert, but I'd like to create this post to consolidate our overall knowledge in setting it up, for everyone's consumption. As a starting point, below are a couple of must-see links:
Multimedia over Coax Alliance Homepage - Deep dive into how the MoCA was developed, as well as list of MoCA certified products.
MoCA in Your House - Contains a collection of how-to videos and information in setting-up your home MoCA network. It also contains some recommended certified products you can acquire to include in your MoCA network.
Please share your tips and advise here as well! I am planning to have this pinned in our subreddit.
Recently i bought an unmanaged TP Link TL-SG105S switch, after some tests i noticed an inconsistent auto negotiation behaviour with different pc's i own.
All scenarios described bellow use the same switch and same cables to link Router/Switch/PC.
I don't understand why the negotiated speed in Scenario 1 is very different from Scenario 2, i am using the same cables in both scenarios.
I have 3 stories and long hallways. Probably 8000+ Sqft(guessing). Need good wall penetration. For the Wireless Access Points I plan to ceiling mount and run ethernet to them.
What hardware do I need to purchase? What does each one do?
Also, I found these tips from /u/brianatlarge helpful and wanted to share.
If at all possible, use wireless access points with an ethernet backhaul.
These are AP's like UniFi or TP-Link Omega.
For every 1000 - 2000 sq ft of home, you need at least one access point.
You don't want more than 3 walls between each access point.
Access points broadcast DOWN. Keep them mounted on the ceiling.
Also, don't expect them to provide coverage on the floor above.
Your WiFi controller software should show you the signal level of the connected devices. Ideally, signal level should be greater than -70dB.
I'm looking for a budget router for aroud $90 USD, my current internet speed is 60download and 10 upload and I live in an apartment with a bell modem that was given from the internet package. Looking to upgrade because my bufferbloat scores are pretty low and I want the best expereince for gaming.
I recently upgraded my router and my old self has not remembered how everything was previously set up. But it seems confusing to me that after enabling DMZ Plus on the Pace to the new router, that the router is getting the local IP of the Pace instead of the public IP. Is this normal? I cant seem to access any services remotely (i.e. Plex, VPN, etc).
While pulling a CAT6 Solid cable (23AWG), I went from the other side to give it a push since it had the bulky tape part, while pushing it, it bent about 100 degrees, almost 90. The cable itself should be of high quality, it's a Monoprice CAT6.
Is the part that was bent still good? Or it could've broke inside?
We currently have Netgear R7800 (AC2600), located on the 2nd floor, which means part of the basement has no signal. I am thinking moving to mesh with 3 nodes, so one node on each floor from basement to 2nd floor. The nodes will use wired backhaul, thru MOCA. As I have $200 Dell credit to use, I am thinking maybe buying from them. The only problem is that Dell seems to have a very limited selection, and the one that fits the constraints best is TP-Link Deco M5. It has very good review, but it only has bandwidth of AC1300. Our internet speed is Fios 200/200Mbps, and the main usages of internet are WFH, streaming videos and occasional gaming, for a total about 10 devices.
Do you feel AC1300 would be good enough? Is it necessary to get something with larger bandwidth, to future proof for maybe 3 years?
Hi all, first to say i don't have some special experience with network setup. I have Ubee EVW327 home router provided by internet company, but would like to upgrade.
My idea is to use that Ubee only as a modem (turn off wifi and other stuff), and to have custom setup. I also want to get more into network stuff, and research showed me Mikrotik/RouterOS or OpenWRT(on supported router) is what i need.
Some of requirements are: Dual-Band WiFi, QoS, ability to create and manage VLANs, USB port for NAS would be very desirable, MU-MIMO also desirable (802.11ax is a bonus)... Probably will host some home media/file servers.
I am closer to start with Miktotik, but this is my dilemma:
- Buy Mikrotik router with Wifi included (i found a post which says that WiFi on Mikrotik could be problematic), like RB2011UiAS-2HnD-IN or hAP ac3 RBD53iG-5HacD2HnD
- Buy Mikrotik LAN router, and get Access Point separately (i don't have any recommendations for AP, maybe some TP-Link...), like hAP ac RB962UIGS-5HACT2HNT or something cheaper (750UP-R2 hEX lite PoE, RB750Gr3, RB760iGS hEX S...)
My budget is in range 150-200$.
Tanks for any suggestions!
Can i use 10G SFP+ DAC cable to SFP port of switch?
I need to improve the home's wifi for under $200.
It's a 3 story home, basement, ground floor and upstairs.
The house is a brick exterior.
Any help would be great.
I game in the basement (hardwired PS5 & PC) and my daughter games upstairs (wifi PC & Switch)
Edit: Typo in title: two* ends
I have 2 rooms with distance of 20m in conduits. In the middle there's a conduit junction box.
What would be better: Pull a cable from room 1 to the junction and pull cable from room 2 to the junction and connect it there somehow? If so, how would you do it reliably?
Or, it would be better pulling a long cable from room 1 to room 2.
The issue is that I might not be able to pull it as one from room 1 to room 2 and I will have to meet in the junction box.
This is an illustration: https://imgur.com/a/832KbDE
When accessing 1fichier to download backups, it always states it's not possible to access the site and mentiones a ERR_CONNECTION_RESET.
I deleted the hosts file and reset DNS settings. I'm having this issue for some years only with this website (I think).
I think it's a program or program or Windows setting that is causing this problem.
I installed a custom (created by NTLite) Windows 11 image on a VM and I don't have this issue right after signing into my user account for the first time but I've yet to install all the programs and change their and Windows settings but according to past experiences after doing so I'll have this problem again since I have it for some years.
So, I'm having issues for quite some time after connecting to the internet.
I used TP-Link Wi-Fi Range Extenders (I have 3) and a TP-Link Powerline (I have a two-pack kit) but to no avail. I was told the latter was better since it uses the electric wiring to transmit communication signals.
The Wi-Fi connection is very slow (I always set the same SSID as the router's), doesn't reach all the rooms and it's always messing up the router, especially the Wi-Fi extenders, and so I get no internet access. If I use the Powerline it looks like it's more stable, i.e., doesn't mess up the router as often (although the range is not good, too) but it sometimes it does as well and ethernet download speed is very slow after directly connecting PCs to the router via CAT6 cables. Also, my previous set-top box was always restarting sometime after connecting the Powerline.
I was able to update the Wi-Fi Range Extenders but not the Powerline.
Even relatively close to the router the signal is very weak, especially 5 GHz. I have 500 Mbps hired. My ISP switched routers (and the set-top boxes) but the problem is even worse now. Both the Powerline and the Wi-Fi Range Extender don't support 5 GHz.
Are there not very expensive solutions since I've been told ones that literally cost hundreds of euros?
This issue is really annoying and we can't work because of it.
It's unnaceptable for the ISP to have changed routers (the previous one was about 10/11 years old) and now the situation is even worse (it already was bad before) and because of it one must spend more money to (try) to fix this situation!
Sorry for my english but it isn't my native language.
I have a short rack at home, depth 33cm or so. I'm after a 1–2U rack server that
- has a serial console or HDMI/VGA port
- can run Linux (Debian)
- hosts 4× 3.5" disks (SATA)
- ideally has two M.2 slots on board, or a PCIx slot, and is able to boot off those
The QNAP TS-451DeU would be perfect, but QNAP does not want you to gain control of the hardware.
Any ideas on what hardware might be suitable?
Hi, I'm new to this reddit. I recently got my Starlink antenna & modem and it works great. So now I want to make it available all over my property. I live out in rural NE AZ, & previously could only get poor internet service though HughesNet. My problem is that I live in a small "cabin" [12'x12'] next to a 44' dry van trailer [which contains all my movies (VHS, BD & UHD) & music (CD & vinyl)]. On the opposite side of this trailer I built a lean-to shed, 6'x24', mostly for storage & to house my solar equipment [batteries, inverter, etc.]. I do have a desk set up in there to work on my computer [during the summer - too cold in winter]. The trailer is all metal, so I can't pass wi-fi through it.
So, I mounted my Starlink to the top edge of the trailer and put the modem/router in my cabin and it works great. I would like to set up a mesh network to cover the cabin, the trailer & the shed. I ordered the Starlink [V2] ethernet adapter, and the following network components: TP-Link ER-605 Router, TP-Link OC300 Omada Controller, TP-Link TL-SG105PE POE Switch, 2 TP-Link EA225 Outdoor AP's, TP-Link EA225 Indoor AP, & 2 TP-Link CPE-210 Long Range Outdoor CPE's. I plan to disable the Starlink router & hook up the ER-605 router to the Starlink ethernet adapter. Then the switch to that, the Omada controller and the 3 AP units to the switch [also one CPE unit]. The 2 outdoor AP's will be mounted on opposite sides of the trailer, to mainly cover the cabin & the shed, but also the surrounding area [like a security camera for my long driveway & roaming phone coverage]. The indoor AP will cover the trailer itself. I also have a guest house [trailer] about 2-3km away, with clear line of sight. I wanted to mount one CPE-210, configured as an AP, on the end of the trailer pointing at the guest house and the other CPE-210, configured as an Client Router AP, close to the guest house. I would set up a separate subnet [different SSID] for the guest house.
Does this sound like the proper setup? Any advice would be appreciated. Especially about the CPE set up as a Client Router AP. Would this allow laptops & phones in the guest house to connect wirelessly to my network and use my Starlink internet connection?
Early rebuttal: Powerline is the only viable solution for my use case.
After experiencing agonisingly slow network speeds for several weeks I pulled my finger out and investigated. The long and the short of it was that the cause was identified as a TP Link Kasa I’d installed to control grow lights for some chilli plants.
I post this out of frustration with TP Link and, I hope, a warning to others to be wary.
i saw that the XR1000 by nighthawk was really good and the eero pro 6e as well. I can spend like $300~ and i got a docsis 3.1 modem too. my ping is around 20-30 and i was seeing if i could lower that even more. Also thinking of switching from spectrum 1gb to at&t fiber. my main concern is just low ping and bufferbloat. I use a wired connection to my pc btw
Hi, I'm looking for a router I can connect a USB SSD to to act as a home storage device. Would the Asus AX5700 work, or is it perhaps overkill? Would I even be able to harness the purported network speeds with a USB SSD?
I'm intending to download CDs and DVDs onto my PC and upload them to the router, so I can stream the files on my devices from the router (like a NAS).
Another question: would it be worth it to get a SSD instead of a hard drive if I wanted to stream files from it?
I have a coax cable network running through my house. There is a coax port in every room. My current internet provider is fiber and does not use the coax network in anyway. The fiber line comes in completely separately. Can I use MoCA Adapters to send internet from my modem into my existing coax network to then use in other rooms? Thank you!
I'm currently running a Mikrotik hEX rb750gr3 as my primary router, which is capable of fully utilising my 1Gb down, 0.5Gb up connection, but only on IPV4. IPV6 pegs its CPU core at 100% and limits speeds to ~350Mbps, regardless of how many firewall rules I have or don't have.
ISP connection is PPPoE with a VLAN, which is probably why the CPU gets hit so bad. IPV4 is saved by FastTrack, but that's not available on IPV6 in Mikrotik's RouterOS.
Do you have any tips for a router that wouldn't limit my IPV6 speeds? 5(total) ports is plenty. Wifi is unnecessary as I have an AP for that.
Good day, would like to ask if its possible, 2 routers from 2 different homes with its own internet connections. I would like to allow HOME 2 to access HOME 1's Media Server (Jellyfin), but retaining each ones internet connections. Is this possible?
Home 1 router is the only one I can update, though we already have a physical LAN cable present. Connected to HOME 1 LAN 1 (IP: 192.168.1.2), to HOME 2 LAN 4 (192.168.0.1).
Will setting HOME 1 router as Access Point work? will it still use its own internet?
Hi. I would like to store a minecraft server on my PC and play with people that I don't necessarily trust. That's why I'm a little worried about hosting it locally. Is there any advantage to pay for a cheap vps and give them the vps IP, while configuring the vps to forward all traffic in the correct port to my computer? If it is more secure somehow, how do I do it?
I just moved to a townhome where the internet signal comes into a coax jack on the main floor. I have my office in the basement and I'd like to set up a homelab down there. I had pihole set up in our old house, and I'd like to set that up here and finally expand on that into a legit homelab.
The problem is there is no wired connection down there. There is a coax jack but it did not receive a signal when I connected the router. So I had to accept that the router has to live upstairs.
I also recently upgraded to 600 Mbps with a xfinity xb7 modem. It's nice to have wifi 6 but it still does not have that great of a signal downstairs. The building has a pretty crowded wifi spectrum. My eventual longer term goal is to buy my own modem and router for better signal and more control over the network.
My question is, is there a way to get a wired signal downstairs using the existing coax jack? I've looked into MoCa adapters but I'm not sure if that is what I need. Also what is the best way to test where that coax jack connects to?
Please help, thanks!
PS- this is a rental, so pulling wires in the wall or installing anything permanently is not something I can do.
Does anyone know if the radio in the S is exactly the same as the U? I don't really need the full grunt of the extra cores and RAM of the U, but I do want the legendary radio sensitivity as I'd like one router to cover the entire house.
hi all! I don't know if this is the right place to post this, so sorry if it's not. I got my first PC 4 years ago and my friends have helped me with a lot of things so I'm still not the most tech savvy person. I have Mediacom as an ISP and had steady 30-40 ping for my area a few years ago but as of the last year it's just been really bad, sometimes worse than others. My ping has instead usually sat at 50-60 when it's stable (which is rare) and it'll spike randomly to 1000 all the way up to 5000 then come back down like 5 minutes later which leads to disconnects from games and from the internet on my PC. I still have bad connection issues on my phone but nothing as bad as what it is on my PC. I called Mediacom the other day to have them reping my internet to see if that helped and they swapped out my router but I still have the issues. I was wondering how I could possibly fix these issues/what they are.
thank you much and sorry if I didn't explain things the best, pls let me know if something wasn't entirely clear